The Aubergine Line — Twenty-two Tahitians at 9mm, held to one overtone.
Plate VIII · The Aubergine Line
The Aubergine Line — detail 1
VIIIb

Lot 08

The Aubergine Line

Tahitian · Motu Ahé lagoon, Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia · lifted 2024 · graded New York

A bracelet is the hardest small piece to match, because the whole thing sits inside a hand's width and any pearl that disagrees is obvious. These twenty-two were pulled from a 400-pearl lot for a single overtone — the smoky purple the trade calls aubergine.

Steel-blue and green pearls from the same lot went to the Rangiroa Rope, where the variation is an asset. Here it would have been a flaw.

Double-knotted on charcoal silk with a concealed white gold box clasp, so the line is unbroken all the way round the wrist.

$3,800 including insured delivery and the signed report

Length7.5 in
Which length is right? Drawn to scale
14" 16" 18" 20" 24" 32" 36"

Just below the collarbone. The default, and the safest gift.

Measured as the full circumference of the strand, not the drop. Most adult necks are 13 to 16 inches. Between two lengths, size up.

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Condition report Lot 08 · IO-TA-0244

size
9.0 – 9.4mm
length
7.5 inches
count
22 pearls
lustre
Very good
surface
Lightly spotted — 86% clean
nacre
1.6mm
shape
Round to near-round
colour
Dark grey body, aubergine overtone
matching
Very good
clasp
Concealed 18k white gold box clasp

Provenance

Motu Ahé lagoon, Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia. Lifted 2024. Graded and strung at the bench in Tribeca, New York.

Assessed by

Elin FerreiraGraduate Gemologist, GIA

Every figure above was measured on this piece. The standard

Lustre — Very good

Drag to see the grades either side of it.

Where it came from

Motu Ahé lagoon

Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia — Pinctada margaritifera — black-lipped oyster. A Tahitian pearl is dark all the way through — the colour is the oyster's own shell lip, not a treatment. What varies is the overtone floating on top of that dark body: the greens and violets people call peacock, or the smoky purple called aubergine.

All three farms

Motu Ahé lagoon, Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia
The Aubergine Line $3,800